I prefer not to retract the fillament (Distance = 0) but only lift the head. Maybe it can be turned off completely but I feel better to have one when the printing head travels over the field.
So you should definitly set the Extrusion Width to Manual = 0,40mm and (if you ever have) compensate an over extrusion by thee multiplier. Physics says that by cooling something it will shrink… OK by principle the fillament should not shrink to much but it does at least very very little. If extrusion and speed is at an optimum the diameter of the resulting line could not be bigger then the nozzle diameter (at least not so much bigger) it would need a massiv over extrusion. I realy cant understand why S3D is chosing a value so much bigger then the nozzle diameter. Adjusting the first layer underspeed also changes the skirt speed. By using a raft, such issues are all but eliminated in situations where the machine is not completely out of calibration. It may be tilted, bent or at an inappropriate distance from the nozzle tip. One of the persistent issues in filament-based 3D printing is the quality of the print surface.
This is not only because of an under extrusion but also because the “Auto” setting is leading to an bigger offset of the printed lines (0,48mm). Re: How to change skirt/brim printing speed. A raft produces a known good temporary print surface. At 100 at 0.2mm layer height setting, I got a 0.4mm first layer for a raft. Normally it's 100, however, it might be ideal to set to between 10-50 based on some quick slicing tests. So in S3D, the setting is first layer height as a percentage. Thats a fact! The first printing result show that by default (multiplier = 0,90 Extrusion Width = Auto) the inner and outer walls seem to be not connected. Re: Is the Raft supposed to look like this + Simplif圓D Settings.
The nozzle diameter of the SM2 is 0,40mm. That has something to do with my prefered start script. I also changed the starting point settings. The fact that the first layer settings can only be configured in relation to normal speed and normal layer high is also the reason why the auto-config quality settings are not working for me (the percentages are not part of the quality settings).
The speed setting for firt layer is not applied to the “Additions” (Skirt). With 40% speed you get 1440 mm/min for a good stickiness of the first layer. I allways use a first layer high of 0,200mm independet from the quality setting because this is best working for my calibration behavior. the extruder to push the molten filament at the required speed and quantity. A layer is allways started with the most inner wall -> outer wall -> infill. 15 from Creality is designed for a wider host of 3D printers the Ender 3. So I chose 0,2400 for the layer high and I think this is the maximum you can get out of a 0,4 nozzle without bigger quality problems.ģ Layers for top, bottom and walls is good start for now and also what Luban does. For “Fast” priting I chose the same settings like in Luban.